Climb Guide > Guides > Froggatt Edge > Strapiombante
Climb Guide > Guides > Classic Climbs > Strapiombante

Strapiombante

Grade E1 5b
Length 9m
Location Froggatt Edge, Peak District
Rock Peak Grit
Attitude North
First Climbed Dave Brearly, Paul Nunn. 2/1962
Approach Froggatt edge lies parallel to the B6054 road. The most popular way of approaching the edge is from the northern end. There is limited parking in a few lay bys, about 450m south of the Grouse Inn. There is a National Trust car park further north if the lay bys are full. The path starts at the White Gate, and runs the whole length of the edge. You know when you have reached the edge, when the ground to the right of the path looks like the top of the edge. This happens just after the path bends left, and there is a boulder of about 2.5m high on the left.

The other approach is from a footpath starting at the Chequers Inn. The parking here is even more limited. The walk in is shorter, but steeper.

Strapiombante is at the very northern end, identified by the large ledge about 2 foot from the top.

Description

Start below the ledge by the big polished hold. Pull up to get the main crack, also unfortunately polished. Traverse right to the bottom of the next crack, which is climbed until you are standing below the ledge. Very good cam placements.

Make a very long reach up left to get a hugely rounded hold, which you swing up onto the ledge by. Apparently there is a better way, via a hidden hold.

Notes Strapadictomy E5 6a, the arete to the right, is also a very fine climb.