| Approach |
In Langton Matravers there is a south turn
about 100yds west of the King's Arms. At the end of this lane there is a
couple of places to park. The rather damaged lane continues with a lot of
holes and ditches to a national trust car park.
From here follow a wide path past Spyhead
farm, through two fields, and to the top of the hill. When you go through
the kissing gate turn left and follow the brow of the hill to another
gate. Then head down hill to a gap in a wall, follow the bottom of this
gully to a stile. The ledge is on your left. The abseil
point is a cemented pipe down right off a large ledge. There
are two seasonal restrictions along this part.
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| Description |
| 1) |
Start up the obvious
crack, to the right of a large blank section, that becomes
constricted at about 15m and has a small overhang on its left. Climb
the crack to the overhang, then traverse left under it using
underclings. Ascend the left side to a large ledge and block belay. |
 |
| 2) |
Climb the slab (crux),
clipping the large rusty peg, to gain large holds above. This can be
done using tiny crimps, or a really long long reach. Finish direct,
pulling over a small overlap. Belay with anchors at the back of the
ledge. |
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