Climb Guide > Guides > Southern Sandstone > Harrison's Rocks > Unclimbed Wall
Climb Guide > Guides > Classic Climbs > Unclimbed Wall

Unclimbed Wall
(Database Entry)

Grade 5b  (top rope or solo only)
Length 9m
Location Harrison's Rocks, Sussex
Rock Southern Sandstone
Attitude South
First Climbed Jean Morin and co. 1926-9
Approach The rocks are situated about 1.5 km south of Groombridge, about 4km south of Tunbridge Wells. They are approached by heading south from Groombridge, passing the old station on the left. At the first fork go right and after 200 metres turn right again. A car park is soon reached, beyond which vehicles are not allowed. There is a donations box at the exit, which goes towards maintenance of the toilets, car park and rocks. The best access route leaves the opposite corner of the car park from the entrance. It is often muddy but does end up at the end of the rocks.

Unclimbed wall is on the far end of the crag, the southern end. About 20m from the boundary. It is easily identified by the large break at half height.

Description

Start 2m left of the obvious pot holes at one third height. Stand up to a thin meter long crack, then step right to the pot hole. Move up off this to reach the main break. Move to its right hand side, and make a hard move up to reach the crack and iron stone holds above. There is a knack to the hard move.

Once you have got the hard move sorted, it is a wicked solo. Climbing it one handed pushes the grade up a little.

Photos : Nick Cernis Collection

Notes As the sandstone is so soft there is no leading. Only soloing and top roping. If gear is used it will not help you and seriously damage the rock.