| Rock Type | Limestone |
| Access |
In Langton Matravers there is a south turn
about 100yds west of the King's Arms. At the end of this lane there is a
couple of places to park. The rather damaged lane continues with a lot of
holes and ditches to a national trust car park.
From here follow a wide path past Spyhead farm, through two fields, and to the top of the hill. When you go through the kissing gate turn left and follow the brow of the hill to another gate. Then head down hill to a gap in a wall, follow the bottom of this gully to a stile. Walk eastwards along the coastal path for roughly 250yds. A grassy ramp in the cliff edge allows a descent into Reforn Quarry. 20yds east of the entrance into Reforn quarry are some large flakes. To the right of these is a stake which acts as the anchor for the free hanging abseil to a large boulder below. Apparently a better descent is from the 36th fencepost east of the stile above the Whiteware quarries. The boulder at the base of this abseil is usually unaffected by the sea. |
| Comments |
There is no barrier between cormorant and guillemot
ledge areas. The main difference is that at high tide the base of
cormorant is difficult to move along. But usually the whole lot can be
accessed from below.
There are sections under seasonal restrictions. |
| Best Routes |
Ambler Gambler, 130ft, HVS 5a 5a.
Cormorant Buttress West, 110ft, S. Easiest climb in this region, usual escape route. Cruel Passions, 170ft, E3 5c 5b. Kind of serious. Quality Street, 100ft, HVS 4c. Captain cat, 100ft, HVS 4c 5a. Echalente |
| Guide Book |
Swanage and Portland by climbers' club
Dorset by Rockfax |
| Local Facilities |
Pubs : Square and Compass in Worth Matravers,
Kings Arms in Langton Matravers.
Tom's field is the climbers campsite, and is in a prime position for the cliffs. For anything else you have to go into Swanage. The fish and chip shop on the sea front is worth a visit. |