| Rock Type | Limestone |
| Access |
In Langton Matravers there is a south turn
about 100yds west of the King's Arms. At the end of this lane there is a
couple of places to park. The rather damaged lane continues with a lot of
holes and ditches to a national trust car park.
From here follow a wide path past Spyhead farm, through two fields, and to the top of the hill. A well worn path leads down to the sea. It is signposted dancing ledge. You cross a stile and then the path descends into dancing ledge quarry. |
| Comments |
The area is very popular with non-climbing
parties. In summer the area can be packed with tourists having picnics and
swimming. The lower wall is often used to instruct beginners.
The majority of the routes are bolted, although there is the odd traditional climb on the lower wall. The best part of this area is the region around the large cave at the western end of the lower wall. |
| Best Routes |
Sloping and hoping, 40ft, E3 5c
War of the wardens, 25ft, VS 4c. The easiest climb on the upper quarry. Mariner's Graveyard, 90ft, E5 6a 6a. Traverses the main cave, V scary. Hell's Darker Chambers, 60ft, E7 6c. The hardest climb, low in the grade. |
| Guide Book |
Swanage and Portland by climbers' club
Dorset by Rockfax |
| Local Facilities |
Pubs : Square and Compass in Worth Matravers,
Kings Arms in Langton Matravers.
Tom's field is the climbers campsite, and is in a prime position for the cliffs. For anything else you have to go into Swanage. The fish and chip shop on the sea front is worth a visit. |
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