| Rock Type | Limestone |
| Access |
In Langton Matravers there is a south turn
about 100yds west of the King's Arms. At the end of this lane there is a
couple of places to park. The rather damaged lane continues with a lot of
holes and ditches to a national trust car park.
From here follow a wide path past Spyhead farm, through two fields, and to the top of the hill. When you go through the kissing gate turn left and follow the brow of the hill to another gate. Then head down hill to a gap in a wall, follow the bottom of this gully to a stile. The ledge is on your left. The abseil point is a cemented pipe down right off a large ledge. There are two seasonal restrictions along this part. |
| Comments |
The ledge is a disused quarry. This makes the
tops of the climbs safer as they are clean cut and have protection
available.
The whole section is very steep and tall, 130ft at the western end. The huge white wall at the western end is very impressive and only breached by some very extreme climbs. As the cliff is accessed by abseil, it is important that anyone going down should be able to get back up. The easiest route out is Legend HS. Luckily the large boulders remain dry in almost all conditions. |
| Best Routes |
Tudor Rose, 210ft, E2 5b 5b. A true
classic.
Warlord, 140ft, E4 5a 5c. Zo Zo, 100ft, VS 4b -. Excellent lay back, dodgy top. (pic left) Tensor II, 115ft, VS 4c 5a. Superb, varied climb. Legend Direct, 95ft, VS 4c 4a. Hard overhanging layback. (pic right) |
| Guide Book |
Swanage and Portland by climbers' club
Dorset by Rockfax |
| Local Facilities |
Pubs : Square and Compass in Worth Matravers,
Kings Arms in Langton Matravers.
Tom's field is the climbers campsite, and is in a prime position for the cliffs. For anything else you have to go into Swanage. The fish and chip shop on the sea front is worth a visit. |
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