| Rock Type | Limestone | |
| Access |
In Langton Matravers there is a south turn
about 100yds west of the King's Arms. At the end of this lane there is a
couple of places to park. The rather damaged lane continues with a lot of
holes and ditches to a national trust car park.
From here follow a wide path past Spyhead farm, through two fields, and to the top of the hill. A well worn path leads down to the sea. It is signposted dancing ledge. When you reach the stile before the descent into dancing ledge quarry, follow the coastal path right for a quarter of a mile to a stile. Beyond the stile a path leads off right along a ridge then down into Hedbury quarry. There is a large area of seasonal restrictions east of the main quarry all the way to dancing ledge. |
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| Comments |
The quarry is made of as shit a rock as
anywhere at Swanage. The quarry is best identified by the canon at the
east end, last fired over 150 years ago.
The quarry is made up of three areas, the cul-de-sac cave, Mike's corner, and the canon quarry. To access most of the areas you have to use tunnels. The picture shows us waiting for the weather to clear at the entrance to one of these caves. |
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| Best Routes |
Hangs Like a Dead Man, 30ft, E3 6a. Actually
okay rock.
Gary, 55ft, S 4a. Gwen , 40ft, VS 4c. Pale Rider, 35ft, VS 4c. |
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| Guide Book |
Swanage and Portland by climbers' club
Dorset by Rockfax |
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| Local Facilities |
Pubs : Square and Compass in Worth Matravers,
Kings Arms in Langton Matravers.
Tom's field is the climbers campsite, and is in a prime position for the cliffs. For anything else you have to go into Swanage. The fish and chip shop on the sea front is worth a visit. |
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