| Rock Type | Limestone |
| Access |
Swanage is easily accessed from most areas, 1.5 hours from London via Southhampton. Swanage is best approached through Wareham on the A351. The cliffs are south of this road. Most of the cliffs involve at least a twenty minute walk in. |
| Comments |
The limestone is very brittle, and often
loose. But this does mean that there is very little in the way of polished
rock, as it is never around long enough to get polished.
There are all sorts of climbs here, traditional, sport, multi, single, and deep water solos. Unfortunately there are several seasonally restricted areas, and one permanently restricted area. The seasonal restrictions are in affect from 1st March to 31st July. The sea mist can get very dense, and it is thus possible to get lost on the cliff top. Picture below is near Dancing ledge. The path soon fades and navigation gets difficult. |
| Crags |
Winspit, S - E6. Mostly bolted routes,
although there is a small sea wall.
Hedbury Quarry, S - E5. Bolted quarry, traditional sea walls. Dancing Ledge, VS - E7. Bolted Quarry, superb sea caves east of ledge.Guillemot Ledge, HS - E6. Abseil access, traditional climbs, lots of multi pitch routes, non-tidal base. Cormorant Ledge, S - E5. Similar to Guillemot, although with a tidal base. |
| Guide Book |
Swanage and Portland by climbers' club
Dorset by Rockfax |
| Local Facilities |
Pubs : Square and Compass in Worth Matravers,
Kings Arms in Langton Matravers.
Tom's field is the climbers campsite, and is in a prime position for the cliffs. For anything else you have to go into Swanage. The fish and chip shop on the sea front is worth a visit. |
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