| Rock Type | Limestone |
| Access |
From Worth Matravers walk down a dead end
below the village pond. A small path leads down from the left end of the
lane. This soon opens up and you follow the path past some houses to the
back of the quarry.
The very east most buttress is subject to seasonal bird restrictions. |
| Comments |
The main quarry on the right as you walk in
has some excellent bolted routes, and some ruins to shelter in if the
weather turns.
If you turn left you end up at the bat cave, which should not be disturbed. Over the ridge to the right of the bat cave is Quarryman's wall which features some hard bolt climbing. Towards the sea from this wall is a small sea wall. There are some short traditional climbs here. |
| Best Routes |
So Naughty, 50ft, VS 4c. Fun sport route,
slightly polished.
Stonemason, 60ft, E1 5b. Sustained, good introduction to F6a. Lunacy Booth, 60ft, E6 6b/c. Hardest route at Winspit, looks scary. Rubic's Hex, 40ft, VS 5a. Superb traditional climb. (pic below) |
| Guide Book |
Swanage and Portland by climbers' club
Dorset by Rockfax |
| Local Facilities |
Pubs : Square and Compass in Worth Matravers
The village shop above the village pond sells decent food at good prices. Tom's field is the climbers campsite, and is in a prime position for the cliffs. For anything else you have to go into Swanage. The fish and chip shop on the sea front is worth a visit. |
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