KNOTS

BOWLINE

The best knot for tying on with is a personal view that is not totally unjustified. Most people use the figure of eight, usually for the reason that the bowline could turn into a slip knot. Although this is theoretically possible we know of no-one who has encountered this. The other reason people don't use it is that they don't know how to tie it. It is very versitile, and can be used for thousands of uses, a basic harness can even be tied with one.

w Does not tighten up, so is easier to untie under load w Quick to tie w Totally safe with a stopper knot

w Can theoretically slip into a slip knot w Is not as strong compared to a figure of eight

DOUBLE FIGURE OF EIGHT (Bunny ears)

A useful variation of the figure of eight. Mainly used as the top knot on a top roping system by groups. This is because the rope is worn less as there are two bits under strain. But there are other uses for it. For instance in a direct belay system. As there are two loops to be loaded, one can be for the climber, and the other for the belayer. It is also slightly easier to undo than a normal figure of eight.

ALPINE BUTTERFLY

A very crucial knot with a multitude of uses. It is very strong and does not weaken the rope. When tied correctly it looks as if it is not connected to the rope. If you are trying to tension a rope, ie. setting up a tyrolean, then this knot makes life a lot easier. It is connected to two crabs, that act as pulleys and allow easier tensioning. Also the knot does not tighten up, and uses less rope than a figure of eight.

Also it works well for safety lines. If you are going to have to traverse a section a number of times, it saves time to rig a safety line. Where the rope is attached to anchors, a butterfly should be used. So if someone falls off, the rope will not slide and stretch so much.