Climb Guide > Guides > Langdale > Black Crag

BLACK CRAG

Rock Type Feels similar gritstone. Although it definitely isn't.
Access Due to its position high on Pike 'O' Blisco there is a walk in. Although you can make it easier by parking at the three shires stone on Wrynose pass. Then walking towards red tarn. After about 3/4 km, near a small fenced off area you walk up the fell side to the crag. The crag is easily identified by a free standing pinnacle on the west end, pictured below. If you walk as far as long scar then you have gone too far.

You can also reach it from Mickelden up a steep path. But that way often gets crowded and is no fun at all. A slightly better way is from the Blea tarn road. There is parking on the Great Langdale side of the cattle grid. There is a path up a small valley which takes you onto the shoulder of Pike 'O' Blisco, then the top. At the shoulder you need to break off the path left and walk round to the crag.

Comments Although the crag only reaches 16m high, those 16m are some of the best meters in Langdale. The rock dries quickly, and often is coated in thick fog. The combination of few people and fog, make it quite a personal place.

The rock is very hard and rough. Protection is quite sparse in places and that does push up some of the grades.

I have been told you can stand on top of the pillar, but it looks just too small.

Best Routes Yellow Fever, 16m, E2 5b. Thin cracks, that offer little protection.

Hang the Gallows High, 8m, E6 6a. The right arete of the needle. Looks excellent.

Glass Slipper, 16m, E2 5b. The best slab, with almost no protection.

Users opinions

Best 3 Climbs

Glass Slipper**, E2 5b, 5 votes
Needle Arete*, E3 6a, 3 votes
Hang the Gallows High, E6 6a, 2 votes

Worst Climb

Glass Clogs, S, 1 votes

Boldest Climb

Jolly Corner, Diff, 4 votes

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Guide Book Langdale by Fell & Rock Climbing Club
Local Facilities The Old Dungeon Ghyll has excellent ice cream for sale. These are excellent during hot weather, when you come down off the crag. The prices and food here are also second to known. The atmosphere is very friendly.