| Rock Type | Rhyolite |
| Access | Park at Old Dungeon Ghyll. Follow the path towards raven crag. A path branches off left towards Gimmer crag, and it is sign posted thus. The walk is quite far and annoying. Especially the final bit across the large scree slope. A good retreat is straight down to mickeldon. It is not recommended to ascend this way as it is stupendously steep. |
| Comments | This buttress is
very large and has a commanding position on loft crag, high above the
valley floor. From a distance it looks very challenging and scary, but
close up there is a wide array of cracks, slabs, and chimneys.
The average grade of a gimmer climb is probably VS. The majority of the climbs are 2 pitches, with quite a few 4 or 5 pitch routes. This seems like quite a few considering that the crag has a maximum height of 100m. The best descents are South East Gully, and a heathery spur left of the north west face. The South East Gully is the most prominent gash in the crag. I think it is a little steep for beginners to descend. |
| Best Routes |
Main Wall Climb, 49m, VD. 3 pitches, ascend
gently up the right wall of South East Gully. Pictured below.
Bracket and Slab Climb, 97m, S. 7 pitches, forever interesting. 'C' Route, 62m, S. 3 pitches. 'F' Route, 40m, VS 4c. Long single pitch. Gimmer String, 77m, E1 5b. 3 pitches. |
| Users Opinions |
Best 3 Climbs Worst Climb Boldest Climb |
| Comments | Comment System Offline |
| Guide Book | Langdale by Fell & Rock Climbing Club |
| Local Facilities | The Old Dungeon Ghyll has excellent ice cream for sale. These are excellent during hot weather, when you come down off the crag. The prices and food here are also second to known. The atmosphere is very friendly. |
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