Climb Guide > Guides > Langdale > Pavey Ark

PAVEY ARK

Rock Type Rhyolite
Access Park at the car park at the New Dungeon Ghyll hotel, as for mill ghyll. Follow the path up mill ghyll to stickle tarn. Pavey Ark is the massive face in front of you, across the tarn. Some climbs go off of Jack's rake, which is the obvious break going from bottom right to top left. The picture below is taken from the rake.
Comments The crag faces south east, and thus receives a lot of sun. Also there is more vegetation and some quite rare plants. Overall the rock is solid and clean.

The crag is split by many large gullies, little gully, great gully, crescent gully, and east gully. They all go diagonally up right. Jack's rake goes diagonally left. East gully and Jack's rake are good descent routes, if you are too lazy to walk round the crag.

Best Routes Little Gully, 106m, M. The most westerly gully.

Great Gully, 100m, D. The deep gully to the right of little gully.

Crescent Slabs, 60m, S. Pleasant, clean slab climbing.

Arcturus, 82m, HVS 5b. Open climbing in a brilliant situation.

Cruel Sister, 70m, E3 5c.

Mother Courage, 43m, E3 5c. Quite strenuous.

Sixpence, 33m, E5 6b. Sustained.

Impact Day, E9 7a. Dave Birketts recent addition, tackling a very blank wall. Almost onsighted by Ben Bransby.

Users Opinions

Best 3 Climbs

Golden Slipper**, HVS 4b 4c 4a, 3 votes
Cruel Sister***, E3 5b 5c 5a, 2 votes
Astra***, E2 5c, 2 votes

Worst Climb

Little Gully*, M, 0 votes

Boldest Climb

Coma*, E4 6a, 1 votes

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Comments Comment System Offline
Guide Book Langdale by Fell & Rock Climbing Club
Local Facilities The Sticklebarn will provide all the refreshment you need. The New Dungeon Ghyll is not as good, as it is more concerned with its hotel business.