Climb Guide > Guides > Curbar Edge

CURBAR EDGE

Rock Type Grit
Access For the northern end of the edge, the best approach is by a footpath starting at the Chequers Inn. The parking here is very limited. The walk in is shorter. This approach is the same as the one for Froggatt. Beech buttress is the start of Curbar, roughly 110m south of the last big buttress of Froggatt.

The southern end of the edge is best accessed from Curbar gap. There is a small car park by the side of the road. Be sure to lock the car, as car crime has become more common. There is a place to donate money to maintain the car park. The edge is very visible from here. After rain, the rock might well be dry, but this access has a lot of bracken, which won't be dry. It is quite hard to get to the edge, without getting your trousers soaked.

Comments This edge is basically the same as Froggatt, they more or less connect up. The northern end is more broken than the southern end, and is generally less busy. This is good, but has lead to a small matter of vegetation encasing the rock. But there are still good routes around. The quality of the edge gets better as you go south. The rock gets cleaner, less overgrown, and more continuous.

Overall the rock is as good as the peak provides, although it is a little steeper than else where. The eliminates wall is an impressive wall that is steep and foreboding. 

Best Routes

The End of the Affair, 13m, E8 6c. Death from the top floor. A classic if you are a masochist.

Calver Wall, 8m, VS 5a. Well protected finish. Somehow my brother decked out on this climb.

Flying Buttress, 12m, S. Good introduction to lead climbing. The top section is hard for severe.

Knockin' on Heaven's Door, 18m, E9 6c. Very very very very very very serious.

The Peapod, 18m, HVS 5b. A classic. When leaving the peapod, don't take the pressure off your legs too soon.

The Brain, 24m, VS 4c. Varied and brilliant. Start on an unprotected slab, then a corner then an exposed arete.
Users Opinions

Due to the large amount of climbs the crag has been split into North and South. The split is at the large 300m gap in the middle, near birthday crack.

North

South

Best 3 Climbs

Moon Walk***, E4 6a
Ulysses or Bust*, E5 6b
The Line*, HVS 5a

Worst Climb

Sorrel's Sorrow*, HVS 4c
Amphitheatre Crack**, Diff

Boldest Climb

Body Torque, E3 5c

Vote

Best 3 Climbs

P.M.C. 1*, HS 4a
Potter's Wall*, HS 4a
Smoke ont' Watter*, E1 6a

Worst Climb

Squint Start, HVS 5a
Pot, HVS 5b

Boldest Climb

Flying Buttress, S

Vote
Comments 2000-09-27
Comment system working
Webmaster

Add Comment
List Comments

Guide Book

Froggatt by BMC
Local Facilities The Chequers Inn to the North is the closest to the edge. Stocking Farm Campsite in Calver is the best campsite in the area. The edge is visible from the campsite. The Ayre Arms in Calver is within walking distance from the campsite, and is very friendly. They even let Al dry his shoes and socks by the fire.