Climb Guide > Guides > Ben Nevis

BEN NEVIS NORTH FACE

Rock Type Granite
Access The shortest route to the north face is via Allt a' Mhuilinn. The old path across the golf course has been restricted so now the path starts from a national trust car park in Torlundy. From Fort William it is the last right turn before the turn to the gondola. The path is well sign posted and well worn. The walk to the CIC hut should take no more than 2.5 hours unless you are carrying huge loads.

If you are going to spend the night up there to get an early start, It is easiest to stay in the CIC hut. You need to be a member of the MC of S to get hold of a key. The hut is well kitted out and has electricity supplied by a windmill.

Comments The Ben is the highest mountain in the UK and fittingly has the largest granite cliff in the UK. There are more winter routes up here than summer ones. The majority of the summer ones do not have a high grade.

The cliffs are around 400m high, and the longest route is the complete girdle at 4km. A 50m rope is very useful. Overall the rock is sound, but due to the large amount of rock there is loose sections. The tops are often covered with snow from November to June. 

Parts of the Ben have recently been sold. But the north face is still owned by Alcan. This is due to the pipeline and smelter down by Fort William. Alcan are not concerned by climbers exploits so access problems should not arise.

Best Routes Tower Ridge, 600m, D. Scramble or Climb? (V good)

Observatory Ridge, 420m, VD. The most difficult of the Nevis ridges.

The Girdle Traverse, 4km, S. The ultimate expedition on the Ben.

The Long Climb, 420m, VS 4b. If wet, V tricky.

King Kong, 275m, E2 5b. The impressive overlapped wall on Carn Dearg.

Users Opinions

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Guide Book Ben Nevis SMC guide
Local Facilities The CIC hut has a mountain rescue post attached. A key is needed for the main hut. There is a storm shelter on the summit.