Climb Guide > Guides > Chudleigh

CHUDLEIGH

Rock Type Limestone
Access Chudleigh village is nine miles south west of Exeter, just off the A38. At the western end of the village a narrow road leads past a police station to parking by an iron kissing gate on the right, just before a large gated yard. Go through the gate and follow the path for 180m until the end of the rocks are visible. The south face lies down to the left.
Comments
The limestone here is hard and usually reliable. This means that it is popular and often quite crowded. This means that the holds get quite polished, no, actually very very polished. There are some parts that you can see your face in. 

The rocks tend to dry quickly, but are definitely not a place to climb in the rain. There are all grades of climb here (VD - E7), although the easy ones can often feel hard. Some people like this crag, some (including me) hate it.

On sunny days the limestone reflects the light, which is blinding but also very very hot. There are a number of caves, some support rare species of bat and have thus been caged off. The other caves often get used as toilets, which is totally unacceptable, when there is lots of vegetation down below. If you go in a cave there is no rain to wash it away.

Best Routes

Sarcophagus, MVS 4b. Difficult and scary for the grade.

Leak, HS 4a.  Fun varied crack.
Guide Book Climbing on Dartmoor
Local Facilities Have to go into Chudleigh village.