| Rock Type | Granite derivative |
| Access |
From Plymouth or Exeter take the A386 to
Yelverton. Turn off right to Bickleigh, then follow signs north east
towards Shaugh Prior. The rocks are situated just north and west of Shaugh
Prior, OS 538 639. This route is not the most direct route, but is often
the fastest and simplest. The car park is on the south side of the river
Plym, next to the wooden bridge. The original bridge was swept away during
storms in 93/4. There is a regular bus service from Plymouth that stops at
the bridge.
To get to the rocks cross the bridge and follow the path up and across the hillside. Stick to the path as erosion to the surrounding woodland is quite a problem. Soon a path leads off right and the tower comes into view. |
| Comments |
Dewerstone is made up of 4 main buttresses,
the Tower, Devil's Rock, Needle Buttress, and Raven Buttress. Devil's rock
is the most prominent buttress, and is the largest expanse of granite on
Dartmoor. The first recorded climb here was Climbers Club Ordinary in
1935.
The vegetation can make the rock greasy during humid times. Overall the rock dries quickly, and is solid. The climbs here are generally mid grade VS's. Care should be taken to not damage any trees that have been used for belays. If there are nut placements near by, then use those instead! |
| Best Routes |
Tower Crack, HS. West face of the tower. Mucky Gully, D. Quite pleasant wide gully, but only when dry. Central Groove, HS 4b 4b, 180ft. Main groove up the middle of Devil's rock. Fruitflancase, E1 5a. Jamming up twin cracks. Gideon, E1/2 5b. Climbers Club Ordinary, MVS 4a, 175ft. Right side of Devil's rock. Annoying wide crack on second pitch. Needle Arete, VD. The obvious arete on Needle buttress. Better finish is to go right, towards a small tree, then up the steep wall, to the very top pinnacle, 4b. Spider's Web, HVS 5a. Weave through the overhangs on Raven Buttress. V. scary. Dragonsong, E3 6a. The best of the harder routes. |
| Guide Book | Climbing on Dartmoor |
| Local Facilities |
Pubs : White Thorn, Shaugh Prior; The Skylark,
Clearbrook.
There are no camp sites in the vicinity, although a farm near Shaugh Bridge does sometimes allow people to camp there. |