| Rock Type | Granite |
| Access | The crag is above the A498, just east of Eric's cafe. Parking is available at the cafe. But as the car park is not for the exclusive use of climbers, parking should be in accordance with the cafes rules. This will involve a small payment at the cafe. |
| Comments |
The bottom of the crag is very over-grown,
especially in summer. The brambles seem to cover everything. Trying to
identify the climb from the base is neigh on impossible. So it is best to
walk along the road until level with your line, then cross the ditch and
struggle to the base. The far eastern
end of the crag is least overgrown.
The descents are by Belshazzar Gully, on the right end, and the very left end of the crag. Don't climb any fences to walk through fields! |
| Best Routes |
Valerie's Rib, 230ft, HS. Better done in
three pitches. The first one traverse over overhang, second up boldly to
the ledge, third to finish. Superb!
The Grasper, 160ft, E2 5c 5c. Neb Direct, 210ft, E3 5b - 5c 6a. Extreme confidence needed. Christmas Curry, 250ft, S. Excellent beginners route. One Step in the Clouds, 230ft, VS 4b 4c 4b. Excellent. Dream Topping, 60ft, E7 6c. Possibly the hardest climb at Tremadog. Grim Wall, 180ft, VS 4b 4c. A total classic. Merlin, 180ft, VS 4c 4b 4a. Oberon, 170ft, VD. Good beginners route, nice first pitch. |
| Guide Book |
Tremadog by Climbers' Club |
| Local Facilities | Eric's cafe at Bwylch y Moch is the climbers cafe of the area. They serve perfect bacon butties, ice creams, and a small range of climbing gear. Camping behind the cafe. |