| Rock Type | Granite |
| Access |
To the west of Tremadog, before the junction
of the A4048 and A498, a small lane leads up north to a school. The crag
is easily reached from here by a small stile just past the school, and a
track up some scree to the crag.
It is best to park in Tremadog, instead of blocking access to the school. |
| Comments |
Generally this crag is fairly quiet as it is a
more of a walk than Craig Bwlch y Moch. The crag has a split personality,
with a slabby left side capped by overhangs, and overhangs capped by slabs
on the right.
The best descent is down the right side. 150 yards left is a smaller buttress with a few routes of interest, and a little further left is a small prow. |
| Best Routes |
Creagh Dhu Wall, 200ft, HS - - 4b. Possibly the best climb at Tremadog (pic below) The Wasp, 170ft, E2 5c 5c. Varied Tantalus, 220ft, HVS 4b 5a -. Hard for the grade |
| Guide Book |
Tremadog by Climbers' Club |
| Local Facilities | Eric's cafe at Bwylch y Moch is the climbers cafe of the area. They serve perfect bacon butties, ice creams, and a small range of climbing gear. |
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