| Rock Type | Granite |
| Access |
On the A487 in Penmorfa, opposite the post
office is a small road. Follow this lane for a third of a mile until you
reach Tyddyn Deucwm Isaf, a farm on the right. There is room for a couple
of cars to park opposite the entrance, but do not block the adjacent
entrance to the field.
Follow the drive, past a herd of very scary cows, to the farm. Don't make any sudden movements. Before the farm a faint path heads up the hill towards the crag. Do not drive up to the farm! |
| Comments |
The crag is more broken than the other ones,
and thus the quality of the rock is not quite so good. The bottom of many
of the buttresses are heavily overgrown with brambles and the like.
On top of the crag there is some very good bouldering, especially on a large 6m high block at the left end of the crag. The main crack is 5a, while the arêtes are a damn site harder. |
| Best Routes |
Bramble Buttress, 190ft, VD. A tad
overgrown, good for beginners.
Javelin, 210ft, HVS 5a 4a 4c. Enjoyable, but a bold first pitch. Acropolis, 210ft, HS. Excellent last pitch, rubbish gear on the first. Touch up, 100ft, E1 5a 5b. Crap gear, hard climbing. |
| Guide Book |
Tremadog by Climbers' Club |
| Local Facilities | Eric's cafe at Bwylch y Moch is the climbers cafe of the area. They serve perfect bacon butties, ice creams, and a small range of climbing gear. |