| Rock Type | Granite |
| Access |
This crag is one mile east of Tremadog. The
main crag is close to Craig Bwlch y Moch, so parking is best at Eric's
cafe. Park at the furthest car park from the cafe, and buy a ticket from
the cafe. Walk west for 150yds or so until there is a stile on the right,
which is crossed and a scree slope is followed to the crag.
There are several smaller buttresses spread out towards Tremadog, culminating in the excellent Two Face buttress. Access here is best from Tremadog. |
| Comments |
The cliff is popular and duly so. The rock is
solid, and offers some of the finest routes at Tremadog.
Permission to use this crag is apparently still refused, by the N.C.C. So it is best to be discreet when climbing on this crag. |
| Best Routes |
Helsinki Wall, 140ft, HVS 5a - -. Good, but
popular
Surreal - The Unreal Finish, 100ft, E5 6c. Apparently great value for the grade. Poor Man's Peuterey, 230ft, S. Easy, except when all the crap is washed down from above. Silly Arete, 130ft, E3 5c. No gear, but who cares when the climbing is as good as this. Scratch Arete, 200ft, HVS 4c 5a. Not as committing as the silly, but has a move that is very easy to fall off. Hogmanay Hangover, 160ft, HVS 4b - -. |
| Guide Book |
Tremadog by Climbers' Club |
| Local Facilities | Eric's cafe at Bwylch y Moch is the climbers cafe of the area. They serve perfect bacon butties, ice creams, and a small range of climbing gear. |