Climb Guide > Guides > Almscliff

ALMSCLIFF

Rock Type Grit
Access

The best approach is by car, turning off the Otley-Harrogate road at the North Rigton turning, or Gravelly Hill lane. Do not park outside the farm below the crag, but at a lay by below the western side of the crag. Also do not block any entrances. The nearest bus stop is at Huby, about 30mins walk from the crag.

No access problems to the crag or immediately accessible boulders. Climbing is not permitted on the boulders in the nearby fields. Care is required parking and using the correct approach.

Comments

Almscliff is polished in places but friction oddly often does not suffer. All climbing here is traditional, and as such there are no sport routes, any pegs that are in situ does not mean more can be put in.

Almscliff has all types and standards of climbs, although the rounded nature of the rock does make hand jamming a useful asset. Camming devices have made almost all climbs protectable. But the general steepness of the rock does make some climbs seem undergraded.

There is an almost inexhaustible supply of problems and micro routes. Most problems have micro variations that can drastically change the grade. Locals are often the best source of problem information.

Best Routes

Bird's Nest Crack (HS)

Traditional Crack (VS 4c). Pic below.

Pigott's Stride (VS 4c)

Great Western (HVS 5a)

The Wall Of Horrors (E3 6a)

Users Opinions

Best 3 Climbs

Acetabulum, E1 5c, 14 votes
Great Western****, HVS 5a, 4 votes
The Wall of Horrors***, E3 6a, 3 votes

Worst Climb

Great Western****, HVS 5a, 13 votes

Boldest Climb

The Pothole, VD, 19 votes

Vote

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Guide Book

Yorkshire Gritstone by Yorkshire Mountaineering Club

Rock Climbing in Northern England by Bill Birkett and John White

Local Facilities Unknown