Climb Guide > Guides > Caley

CALEY

Rock Type Grit
Access The best approach is from the main Leeds - Otley road (A660). From Leeds pass through the Dyneley Arms cross-roads, round an S-bend at the top of the Chevin until roadside parking is reached on the left by Caley gate. There is not much room, so park close in and be aware of fast cars. There is also a bus service from Leeds that stops below the crag.
Comments The rock is excellent gritstone, reaching 15m on main, and only 9m on roadside. Many of the climbs have a serious nature. The bouldering at Caley is unsurpassed and a personal favourite. There is a wide range of problems, with bold slabs being the specialty. The whole place is a kind of maze, and navigation on your first visit can be quite taxing. During the colder, damper months the crag is best avoided, although there is often a few good boulder problems still available. The rocks do tend to dry quickly, and many enjoyable evenings can be had here.
Best Routes

Plantation Ridge, VS 4c

Noonday Ridge, E1 5b, possibly the best climb on Yorkshire grit.

Permutation Rib, E1 5c, typical solo

Marrow Bone Jelly, E7 6c

Users Opinions

Best 3 Climbs

Little Cenotaph*, VS 5a, 4 votes
Angel's Wall***, HVS 5a, 2 votes
High Noon***, E4 6a, 2 votes

Worst Climb

Holly Tree Scoop*, Diff, 2 votes

Boldest Climb

The Great Flake***, E6 6b, 1 votes

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Guide Book

Yorkshire Gritstone by Yorkshire Mountaineering Club

Rock Climbing in Northern England by Bill Birkett and John White

Local Facilities East of the crag along the main road is a pub that serves excellent Yorkshire pudding.