Climb Guide > Guides > Ilkley

ILKLEY

Rock Type Grit
Access From Ilkley take the road signposted "Cow and Calf", follow this to a car park on the right, just before the hotel. The cow and calf area can be seen from here.

Rocky Valley is half a mile away on the moor. It can be reached by either going through the quarry and out the back, or going round it on its left. The valley should be visible from here.

Comments The whole area is rather exposed, being on top of a moor, and mainly facing north. The quarry acts more as a wind tunnel then a shelter.

The area is a very popular dog-walking venue, and so there is very often an audience.

The quarry has rather smooth gritstone, but some excellent fault lines. The Cow and Calf is different and made of immaculate gritstone. Rocky Valley is more varied, with some excellent rock in places, pic below. It is generally a lot quieter, due its position

Best Routes Pebble Groove, HVS 5b. The Calf. Delicate slab climbing.

New Statesman, 17m, E8 6c. The Cow. Truly gravity defying. 

Wellington Crack, 15m, E4 5c. The Quarry. Brilliant crack.

Piton Wall, 13m, VS 5a. The Quarry.

The Flake Climb, 16m, S. Rocky Valley.

Shock Horror, 11m, E5 6a. Rocky Valley. Dodgy gear, and landing.

Guide Book

Yorkshire Gritstone by Yorkshire Mountaineering Club

Rock Climbing in Northern England by Bill Birkett and John White

Local Facilities There is often an ice cream van in the car park.