| Rock Type | Limestone |
| Access |
The cove lies a mile and a half north of
Malham village. From the south turn right at Gargrave and go through
Kirkby Malham. From the north turn left in Settle and follow the road to
Kirkby Malham.
There is lots of places to leave the car in the village. But it is a lot easier to drive up the road towards the cove, and park on the right near a farm. A well maintained path leads up to the cove. The wings are accessed by steep paths on either side. |
| Comments |
It is a truly awesome site. With huge, steep
walls filling the view. The cove has always been a venue where grades have
been forced, and this is likely to continue, as more lines are forced through
the huge roof.
The wings have some excellent climbs, and are often dismissed as inferior to the main wall. Admittedly they are generally easier, but none the less enjoyable. Overall the rock is solid, but some care should be taken as there are poorer areas. The cove faces south, and in the summer can get way too hot. But also can stay dry during winter. |
| Best Routes |
Cry Freedom, 25m, E9 7a. Central Wall. Once
rated as one of the hardest routes in the world.
Totally Free, 83m, E9 7a. Central Wall. Kirby Wall, 30m, HVS 5b 4c. Right Wing. Carnage Left Hand, 60m, E2 5a 5b 6a. Right Wing. The top pitch can be started with one point of aid. Dropping the route to E1 5b. Flake Wall, 10m, S. Left Wing. Saplink, 18m, HVS 5b. |
| Guide Book |
Yorkshire Gritstone by Yorkshire Mountaineering Club Rock Climbing in Northern England by Bill Birkett and John White |
| Local Facilities | Couple of shops in the village. |
|
|
|
