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"The sensation is akin to coasting down the motorway after being held up at every set of traffic lights in Glasgow."
--Tom Patey describing soloing
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Grade : E2 5b

Length : 16m

Location : Black Crag, Langdale, Lake District

Rock : Feels similar gritstone, although it definitely isn't

Aspect : South

First Climbed : T. Walkington and A Cammack, 2/10/87

Approach
Due to its position high on Pike 'O' Blisco there is a walk in. Although you can make it easier by parking at the three shires stone on Wrynose pass. Then walking towards red tarn. After about 3/4 km, near a small fenced off area you walk up the fell side to the crag. The crag is easily identified by a free standing pinnacle on the west end. If you walk as far as long scar then you have gone too far.

You can also reach it from Mickelden up a steep path. But this way often gets crowded and is no fun at all. A slightly better way is from the Blea tarn road. There is parking on the Great Langdale side of the cattle grid. There is a path up a small valley which takes you onto the shoulder of Pike 'O' Blisco, then the top. At the shoulder you need to break off the path left and walk round to the crag.

Glass slipper is on a slab at the far eastern (right) end of the crag.

Description
A single pitch up a protectionless slab. You can fix side runners in the corner to the right, or traverse far left for some small wires. But there is no gear on the slab itself.

Start by the corner. Step up and traverse left over the overhung base. Climb the slab just left of centre on sharp, small holds. About 5m from top step right and finish in the middle. A sustained climb.

This climb may not be huge, but the 16m of climbing is as good as on any climb. I have climbed it with 5 different people, who all consider it to be excellent, although a tad committing. The picture on the right shows me going a little too high and having a nasty traverse ahead. It was taken back in 1996, since then the crag has become more eroded at its base.

Notes : There was only one climb recorded at black crag before 1984, the VD up the needle. So the crag is a relatively newly developed crag.
--- Laurence
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