Rock Type : Grit

Access : The best approach is from the main Leeds - Otley road (A660). From Leeds pass through the Dyneley Arms cross-roads, round an S-bend at the top of the Chevin until roadside parking is reached on the left by Caley gate. There is not much room, so park close in and be aware of fast cars. There is also a bus service from Leeds that stops below the crag.

Comments
The rock is excellent gritstone, reaching 15m on main, and only 9m on roadside. Many of the climbs have a serious nature. The bouldering at Caley is unsurpassed and a personal favourite. There is a wide range of problems, with bold slabs being the specialty. The whole place is a kind of maze, and navigation on your first visit can be quite taxing. During the colder, damper months the crag is best avoided, although there is often a few good boulder problems still available. The rocks do tend to dry quickly, and many enjoyable evenings can be had here.

Best Routes
- Plantation Ridge, VS 4c
- Zig Zag, VS 4c
- Angels Wall, HVS 5a
- Noonday Ridge, E1 5b, possibly the best climb on Yorkshire grit.
- Permutation Rib, E1 5c, typical solo
- Marrow Bone Jelly, E7 6c


Guide Book : Yorkshire Gritstone by Yorkshire Mountaineering Club
Rock Climbing in Northern England by Bill Birkett and John White

Local Facilities : Lots of facilities just down in Otley, including the cafe by the river that is ace.