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"Among us there is no team spirit, only a necessary politeness. What hypocrisy!"
--Gaston Rebuffat recalls the 1950 expedition to Annapurna
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The alpine butterfly is a beautiful versitile knot. It's main uses are for tieing into a rope in the middle where there could be a pull from either side. Situations like tensioning a tyrolean, setting up a handrail or simply clipping into the middle of a rope.

The knot has an advantage over the figure of eight as it doesn't bend the rope through such a tight angle, and it doesn't tighten up.

--- Laurence
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