The rocks are situated about 1.5 km south of Eridge station. It's marked 'Outdoor Pursuits Centre' on OS maps. The centre is primarily concerned with its own courses. There is also dry ski slope. There is an admissions fee of around £2, but after 2pm it goes down to 80p.
The rock is very sound (for sandstone), and is perhaps the best in the region. Lots of vegetation has been cleared from the top, thus reducing seepage, and allowing the rock to dry quite quickly. The crags southerly aspect means it gets a lot of sun. Unfortunately this means it can get extremely hot and almost impossible to climb in summer. Almost all the routes have got bolts at the top. Which does not mean you simply thread your rope through it. The rope still needs to be extended over the edge. As with all sandstone crags there is a ban on abseiling and lowering off is frowned upon, just walk round, or downclimb one of the many easy gullies.
Chalet Area
This section goes from the very end of the crag (furthest from car park), to the small uninteresting boulders around Two Step 5b. There is very little of any great interest here, as none of it is at all high. Putting a rope up on it almost seems a crime. Having said that there are two fun little routes, Chalet slab Direct 4c and Mohrenkop 5b. The first goes up the middle of the slab past an obvious iron knob, then left over the overhang. The other goes up the front face of the tall block right of the slab, strenuous but excellent holds.
Umbilicus 5c
An excellent route up to the tallest part of the wall. After a semi-dyno to a big hole move up the left side of the top block. Stay on the front though, as the top move is brilliant.
Amphitheatre
There are a number of good routes in this area. Notably the rather flash Temptation 6b which follows the line of bolts, without touching them. Possibly the only climb on southern sandstone that can be lead.
At the back left of the amphitheatre, there is a wall with a banana shaped depression in it. Surprisingly enough to follow the depression to the flared crack, then over the wall on the left, would be to climb Banana 6a. The move over the top is extremely challenging. Also on this wall is Drosophila 5b, which is about a metre left of banana and finishes to the right of the overhang, a good solo.
The next arete has the brilliant Coathanger 5c up it, swinging in from the left, then climbing on the left side half way up. A direct start is 6a. The next wall has some amazing boulder problems, and one excellent route. Fandango 5c, which starts up the middle of the wall then moves left and then right up and over the overhang, with a very tricky mantleshelf. Some people find the direct dyno start easier, although it is apparently 6a.
The next blunt arete is Micks Wall Arete 6a, which is brilliant on sloppy holds, but it is unfortunately marred by the rounded move left of the wide crack.
Kemp's Delight 4b is a nice route about two metres right of the arete, finishing right into the chimney.
Next are a series of hard routes Patella 6b which goes up past some small bolts, to a crack, On the far left of the blank wall.
Digitalis 6a
One of the best routes here. Go off the pedestal left of the arete. Or better yet just right going up on a very small hold to the break. Head right to a fingertip lay-back. Then go right and over the final bulge.
Sapper 4c
A popular but not great route. Although it can be a laugh. Traverse in from the far right of the slab. Traverse left to the staircase feature, then go to and through the hole in the roof. Which is bigger than it looks. Two better starts, one two metres left of the corner, at 5b/c, and one 3 metres left again up the side of a bulge at 5c.
Burlap 5b
The brilliant arete right of sapper, starting on the right, moving onto the left then finishing on the cracks right of the overhang.
The Overhang
There are some outrageously hard routes going up the various cracks, Carbide Finger 6c and Them Monkey Things are the hardest. The overhang means the top-rope is useless until over the lip. Cardboard box 6b is more feasible taking the flake in the roof a metre or so left of abracadabra.
Abracadabra 5a
This is one of the most infuriating routes here. The route simply follows the crack. It can be done by jamming either arm in, although popular consensus says right is a lot easier at 5a and left at more like 6a. Once the start has been mastered a whole host of good routes can be got at above the overhang. The wall a meter right, is 'Conjuror 6a', using a small slot above the overhanging start.
Williamson's Cairn
All the climbs off here are quite nice, from left to right, Ricochet 4b, Four by two 5a, Pullthrough 5b and Lee Enfield 5c up the ramp. Next, starting on the left side of the cave and then going straight up the wall past a big undercut, is Target 5c, high in the grade. Direct start is 6a/b. One of the most varied climbs here, pumpy start, technical middle bit, then a typically bulgy sandstone top.
Devaluation 5b
Up the middle of the next wall past the obvious cut holds. A very excellent solo.
Pig's Nose 5a
This arete has three brilliant climbs. 'Pig's Ear 5c' up the wide crack on the left then over the overhang, the understated 'T.T. 5b' (Terry Tullis) up the thin crack, then 'Pig's Nose 5a' up the arete with the jugtastic overhanging finish. A brave solo.
Larchant Wall
This wall is a jumble of routes, all worth doing and quite low in their respective grades. 'Six Foot 4c' one meter right of the gully, treading slightly right to finish. 'Larchant 5a' two meter or so right, with cut holds to finish on the broad ledge at a kind of groove. 'Hennesey Heights 5b' 2 meters right of larchant, an easy climb on large holds. 'August Variation 5c' go up right of hennesey finishing just left of the break. A very good climb on small, sharp holds.
Nealon's 4c
A very interesting test of bridging, up the overlap finishing in the square cut chimney.
Bouldering
Bowles is one of the best areas for bouldering. It is possible to traverse the entire crag with your feet no more than four feet high, although sections are upto 6a. The main traverse on fandango wall is 'Sugerplum 6a'.
Going from patella to start of sapper keeping feet less than two feet up and hands below the first break is 6a and quite sustained. The best part though is going across larchant wall below the first break. There are thousands of problems much to many to describe here, look at the boulder guide.
--- Laurence
The rock is very sound (for sandstone), and is perhaps the best in the region. Lots of vegetation has been cleared from the top, thus reducing seepage, and allowing the rock to dry quite quickly. The crags southerly aspect means it gets a lot of sun. Unfortunately this means it can get extremely hot and almost impossible to climb in summer. Almost all the routes have got bolts at the top. Which does not mean you simply thread your rope through it. The rope still needs to be extended over the edge. As with all sandstone crags there is a ban on abseiling and lowering off is frowned upon, just walk round, or downclimb one of the many easy gullies.
Chalet Area
This section goes from the very end of the crag (furthest from car park), to the small uninteresting boulders around Two Step 5b. There is very little of any great interest here, as none of it is at all high. Putting a rope up on it almost seems a crime. Having said that there are two fun little routes, Chalet slab Direct 4c and Mohrenkop 5b. The first goes up the middle of the slab past an obvious iron knob, then left over the overhang. The other goes up the front face of the tall block right of the slab, strenuous but excellent holds.
Umbilicus 5c
An excellent route up to the tallest part of the wall. After a semi-dyno to a big hole move up the left side of the top block. Stay on the front though, as the top move is brilliant.
Amphitheatre
There are a number of good routes in this area. Notably the rather flash Temptation 6b which follows the line of bolts, without touching them. Possibly the only climb on southern sandstone that can be lead.
At the back left of the amphitheatre, there is a wall with a banana shaped depression in it. Surprisingly enough to follow the depression to the flared crack, then over the wall on the left, would be to climb Banana 6a. The move over the top is extremely challenging. Also on this wall is Drosophila 5b, which is about a metre left of banana and finishes to the right of the overhang, a good solo.
The next arete has the brilliant Coathanger 5c up it, swinging in from the left, then climbing on the left side half way up. A direct start is 6a. The next wall has some amazing boulder problems, and one excellent route. Fandango 5c, which starts up the middle of the wall then moves left and then right up and over the overhang, with a very tricky mantleshelf. Some people find the direct dyno start easier, although it is apparently 6a.
The next blunt arete is Micks Wall Arete 6a, which is brilliant on sloppy holds, but it is unfortunately marred by the rounded move left of the wide crack.
Kemp's Delight 4b is a nice route about two metres right of the arete, finishing right into the chimney.
Next are a series of hard routes Patella 6b which goes up past some small bolts, to a crack, On the far left of the blank wall.
Digitalis 6a
One of the best routes here. Go off the pedestal left of the arete. Or better yet just right going up on a very small hold to the break. Head right to a fingertip lay-back. Then go right and over the final bulge.
Sapper 4c
A popular but not great route. Although it can be a laugh. Traverse in from the far right of the slab. Traverse left to the staircase feature, then go to and through the hole in the roof. Which is bigger than it looks. Two better starts, one two metres left of the corner, at 5b/c, and one 3 metres left again up the side of a bulge at 5c.
Burlap 5b
The brilliant arete right of sapper, starting on the right, moving onto the left then finishing on the cracks right of the overhang.
The Overhang
There are some outrageously hard routes going up the various cracks, Carbide Finger 6c and Them Monkey Things are the hardest. The overhang means the top-rope is useless until over the lip. Cardboard box 6b is more feasible taking the flake in the roof a metre or so left of abracadabra.
Abracadabra 5a
This is one of the most infuriating routes here. The route simply follows the crack. It can be done by jamming either arm in, although popular consensus says right is a lot easier at 5a and left at more like 6a. Once the start has been mastered a whole host of good routes can be got at above the overhang. The wall a meter right, is 'Conjuror 6a', using a small slot above the overhanging start.
Williamson's Cairn
All the climbs off here are quite nice, from left to right, Ricochet 4b, Four by two 5a, Pullthrough 5b and Lee Enfield 5c up the ramp. Next, starting on the left side of the cave and then going straight up the wall past a big undercut, is Target 5c, high in the grade. Direct start is 6a/b. One of the most varied climbs here, pumpy start, technical middle bit, then a typically bulgy sandstone top.
Devaluation 5b
Up the middle of the next wall past the obvious cut holds. A very excellent solo.
Pig's Nose 5a
This arete has three brilliant climbs. 'Pig's Ear 5c' up the wide crack on the left then over the overhang, the understated 'T.T. 5b' (Terry Tullis) up the thin crack, then 'Pig's Nose 5a' up the arete with the jugtastic overhanging finish. A brave solo.
Larchant Wall
This wall is a jumble of routes, all worth doing and quite low in their respective grades. 'Six Foot 4c' one meter right of the gully, treading slightly right to finish. 'Larchant 5a' two meter or so right, with cut holds to finish on the broad ledge at a kind of groove. 'Hennesey Heights 5b' 2 meters right of larchant, an easy climb on large holds. 'August Variation 5c' go up right of hennesey finishing just left of the break. A very good climb on small, sharp holds.
Nealon's 4c
A very interesting test of bridging, up the overlap finishing in the square cut chimney.
Bouldering
Bowles is one of the best areas for bouldering. It is possible to traverse the entire crag with your feet no more than four feet high, although sections are upto 6a. The main traverse on fandango wall is 'Sugerplum 6a'.
Going from patella to start of sapper keeping feet less than two feet up and hands below the first break is 6a and quite sustained. The best part though is going across larchant wall below the first break. There are thousands of problems much to many to describe here, look at the boulder guide.
Version 8 - Original ID 46
Currently on 0